Family bonds locked in time at Seoul tower

Article by Jae-Ha Kim
Photos by Denton Morris
(Los Angeles Times)

SEOUL — After my family immigrated to Chicago, some of the things my parents missed most about South Korea were the hills and mountains.

They recalled the majesty of Namsan Mountain, whose peak is home to the popular tourist attraction N Seoul Tower. Better known as Namsan Tower, it includes an observatory offering panoramic views of the capital city and beyond.

The main characters in K-dramas often demonstrate their love by attaching personalized padlocks on a fence on the tower’s observation deck. Tens of thousands of “love locks” can be found here (www.nseoultower.co.kr/eng).

It’s a trend well established in cities such as Paris and Prague, but the tradition has taken on an added dimension in Seoul. While couples still attach locks to declare their love for one another, the fence has become a popular spot for adoptees and their adoptive parents to leave padlocks honoring the day they became a family.

“We decided to put a lock at Namsan Tower to commemorate our first trip back to Seoul since adopting our daughter in 2008,” said Kelly Hegarty of Castle Rock, Colo. On their lock, they wrote their last name, the date they visited and the Korean word for “family.”

Padlocks can be purchased on site at a gift shop, but we preferred to bring our own. (Besides being less expensive, ours was distinctive from the ubiquitous heart-shaped ones sold in the boutique.)

A word to the wise: Bring your own Sharpies. Since these locks are big business, the employees will not lend you their permanent markers, even if you make other purchases. (I tried!) They will politely, but firmly, direct you to the gift shop downstairs.

Our son, Kyle, had just started first grade and hadn’t been back to Korea since we adopted him as a baby. He proudly printed his message on the tiny lock and made us take numerous photos of it. He said he wanted to be able to find it the next time we returned.

I didn’t have the heart to tell him that it most likely wouldn’t be there. A friend had already warned us that her family’s lock had been removed to make room for new locks — and new families.

If you go

THE BEST WAY TO KOREA

Korean Air and Asiana Airlines offer non-stop service to Incheon Airport. Restricted round-trip fares from $1,100, including taxes and fees. From the airport, take a taxi (approximately $35-$40) to Seoul. To get to N Seoul Tower from Myeongdong Station, take Seoul Subway Line 4 and get off at Exit 3.

N Seoul Tower is open 365 days. Admission fees for the observatory range from $6 to $8, but access to the “love locks” fence is free. There’s a cable car to the Tower (about $7 round-trip), but we trekked up by foot with the senior citizens taking their daily walks there. I’ll admit that I was huffing and puffing at several points of the climb, but my husband and son had no difficulty with it.

TELEPHONES

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 82 (the country code for South Korea) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Artnouveau City III Seocho Hotel, 1680-1, Seocho-Dong, Seoul; 02-560-7100. About a 10-minute cab ride to the trendy Gangnam neighborhood. Suites have small kitchens, including stoves, microwaves and refrigerators. Some suites come with washing machines. Free parking for guests, but be warned that the spaces are extremely tight. Doubles from about $90 per night.

WHERE TO EAT:

n.GRILL at N Seoul Tower (2-3455-9297). Michelin Star Chef Duncan Robertson helms this French restaurant. Lunch starts at about $40.

Bukchon Son Mandu Restaurant, is a popular chain where you may get three large meat-and-vegetable-filled mandu (steamed or fried dumplings) for under $3. 42-5 Insadong-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul (2-732-1238).

TO LEARN MORE

For more information on visiting South Korea, go to the Korea Tourism Organization. The 1330 Korea Travel Hotline is 2-1330, and callers may ask for help in English, Korean, Chinese or Japanese.

© 2016 JAE-HA KIM